Laya Lingshi Trek | Realities of trekking in Bhutan
Difficult
I had no idea it would be so difficult. If I'd known, I'd never have come. I'm really glad I didn't know, 'cause I'm really glad I came.
Bhutan is not flat
You always go severely up, then down, then up, then around, then down, then up on trails in this area.
Maps are not accurate
The kitchen crew clears and cleans for us - talk about luxury! - and it's time to pack up our daypacks and set off. Today we'll be losing around 3000 feet; on the map it looks like such a trivial, gradual descent that I anticipate it won't be enough of a hike. I still can't believe that we'll be going up that mountain across the way.
When it rains, it pours
Himalayas are not the same as the Sierra
Pretty soon we start going steeply up - and up - and up. Then around the hill, down and down, up and up. The trail is rough, with stones and slippery mud designed to twist ankles, and steep "steps" which climb and descend at ladder-like angles which have the virtue of being brutally direct and making you appreciate Sierra switchbacks. The rough "steps" are not deep enough for Western feet, and make going down in some ways more difficult than climbing up; we have to pick our way carefully to avoid slipping and falling.
A fit trekker is a happy trekker
You are definitely asking the right questions with regard to preparation. It seems possible for almost anyone to do the trek so long as they have a reasonable level of fitness. However, I also don't want you to think that it is trivial to do without being prepared. I'm a physician and definitely a "weekend warrior" at best when it comes to physical activity. I'm "40-ish", and my 2 travelling companions were varying degrees of "50-ish". I felt reasonably well prepared with what my companions and I did as lead up, although there is no doubt in my mind that the fitter you are the better - and we could/should have strived to have been a whole lot fitter.
Anyway we started planning for the trip over 5 months before we went. Our intention was to get out on a trail for at least a day hike every weekend. With that goal, the reality was that we probably managed an average of about 4 hours on a trail every other weekend. A couple times we managed to take a whole day and get up Mt. San Antonio (an elevation gain of about 6000ft to a summit at about 10,000 ft). I wish we had done a lot more, but practically speaking that was really it. I'd also recommend something like that as pretty much the minimum. In addition, I'd be pretty adamant that working out in the gym is no replacement for getting on a trail (preferably one with at least a bit of altitude gain), with a pack on your back - not to mention the trail being more enjoyable... Getting on the trail as prep is also a great way to figure out what equipment works for you and what doesn't. Even better if you can get to somewhere cold to test out cold weather gear - because for sure you are going to be cold at some point in Bhutan...
