BHUTANESE TOUR GUIDES SAY NO TO TOURISTS’ TARIFF LIBERALISATION

guides

Guides against tariff liberalization

A majority of about 100 guides who attended a discussion on issues and challenges in the guiding profession yesterday wanted the current system including the tariff to remain the same.

The Guides Association of Bhutan (GAB) organized the meeting to discuss the National Council’s recommendations on tourism particularly the tariff liberalization, standardization, daily allowance and training opportunities for guides, among others.

Discussions on tariff dominated the forum and despite requests to take turns, all guides spoke at the same time.

GAB chairman Garab Dorji said that, personally, he felt it was time for some reform in the industry to bring about healthy competition in the market.

Last year’s international tourist arrivals of 58,022, he said translates to 12,000 groups. “This means that each guide, on an average catered to about four groups,” he said.

This indicates that a guide was employed only for a month, he said, which means guides are unemployed going by the labour force definition of employed. “It becomes a part time job,” he said.

GAB’s former executive director Sangay Phurba who is now a trainer said while it would be easy to liberalize, the reality would be different. If the issue was about undercutting, he said the government gets its taxes and royalty. “Technically, there is no undercutting,” he said, adding there are few cases but that’s business. “How sure are we to be employed if liberalized?”

A specialized guide Dr Norbu Wangchuk said he was for liberalization, as the country’s economy did not benefit much in the current system. “The overseas travel agents sell Bhutan for USD 500 to 600 but the money doesn’t enter our economy,” he said.

With liberalization, he said regional tourists would balance the tariff paying tourists. “Going by the increase in regional tourists, it won’t be long before the unregulated regional tourists overtake international tourists,” he said, emphasizing the existing issues of regional tourists.

If liberalized, he said that GAB could take the lead role in categorizing guides based on experience and market.

The guides agreed on the need to set a minimum base rate for guides based on which tour operators could “top up” depending on a guide’s expertise. The guides also requested that they be paid as per the clientele, specialization and experience.

Guides are paid Nu 500 to Nu 1,500 a day during peak season while during lean seasons they earn about Nu 500 to 1,000.

Guides said they have been paid the same amount since they joined the industry and the limited allowance was not enough to cover food and accommodation, unless its provided for free.

A guide said the government proudly claims that the unemployment rate has been reduced when the reality is different. He said the labour ministry must step in to address the issue of freelancing by providing stipend until they are permanently employed.

The issue of unregulated regional tourists and lack of training opportunities for guides to enhance their skills also came up for discussion.

Senior guides said there were training opportunities for guides until 2000 after which it was done away with. Guides also agreed to propose authorities to ensure that all regional tourists avail guides.

With about 640 guides entering the industry every year, a guide said it was a concern while another suggested that training institutes stop producing more guides so as not to affect employment opportunities. “Currently, guides are produced like chips from a factory,” a guide said.

Sangay Phurba said just because there are unemployed graduates or trained teacher today don’t mean that the colleges close shop. “This is not how it works, it’s a free market and the same applies to the rest of us,” he said.

There are more than 2,700 licensed guides today.

SOURCE: KUENSEL

Bhutan: A trip to the happiest place on earth

Trekking through the Himalayas in Bhutan.

Trekking through the Himalayas in Bhutan.

I’m in the prayer hall of Tango Buddhist monastery high on a mountainside in Bhutan, watching as a woman performs chag, ritual prostrations before the Buddha.

Three times she clasps her hands in the prayer position, brings them to the crown of her head, to her throat and then to her heart before folding to a kneeling posture and touching her forehead to the floor.

Chag is one of seven ritual practices known as yoen lak duen pa; the woman is a Westerner. Over the next week it’s a theme repeated with many small variations, foreign visitors spinning prayer wheels, lighting butter lamps, wearing the white khata, Buddhist symbol of purity.

Monks look out of a temple in Tango monastery on the outskirts of Thimphu. Photo: Reuters

“Why do people come to Bhutan?” a guest at dinner in my hotel asks me that night. He’s Bhutanese, a lawyer, and it’s a rhetorical question.

“It has a wonderful topography of mountains and forests and rivers, clean air, small population, but then so does Colorado, so does New Zealand and Switzerland. So why do people come from so far when they could so easily and so much less expensively find all these things closer to home?

Because they come to Bhutan for the culture. Because they sense in Bhutan something that has been lost from their own existence,” he says. “They want to change their lives.”

Mount Jumolhari at 7300 metres, seen through prayer flags from Chele La Pass. Photo: Danita Delimont

The last Himalayan Buddhist kingdom, Bhutan is a world apart, a misty, mystic, sequestered realm of chanting monks, prayer flags and monasteries perched high on sub-Himalayan ridgetops. Known as Druk-yul, “Land of the Thunder Dragon”, Bhutan moves to its own rhythm.

This was the last country to get television, and still, so they say, the last without a traffic light. The sale and distribution of cigarettes and other tobacco products is illegal. The gho, the knee-length robe that is the Bhutanese national costume, is required for men working for the government, schools or the tourism industry.

Most famous is Bhutan’s concept of Gross National Happiness, its unique contribution to the way nations measure their success. Rather than the crude yardstick of Gross Domestic Product, Bhutan gauges its position in the world by the four yardsticks of culture, environment, good governance and economic development. It’s another kind of richness, and viewed through the prism of GNH, Bhutan scores well.

 Elderly men in traditional Bhutanese dress are seen at a Buddhist festival in Thimphu. Photo: Reuters

Bhutan offers a masterclass in another way to live, but it’s not for everyone. Bhutan pursues a policy of high-value, low-impact tourism “aimed at attracting tourists who will respect the unique culture and values of the Bhutanese people”, according to the government’s website.

Apart from visitors from India, Bangladesh and the Maldives, every visitor pays an admission fee of US$250 (NZ$380), a figure that deters backpackers and budget travellers. Excluding visitors from the subcontinent, Bhutan laid out the welcome mat to a little more than 50,000 international arrivals in 2013. It’s exclusive, and the high admission price adds to its mystique. It also fosters a clubby elitism among its visitors.

Although it has all the right credentials to become the adventure capital of Asia, apart from white-water rafting on the Pho Chu River and a couple of hardcore treks, the lack of specialist operators and the high cost rules this out as a premium adventure destination. Once you’ve visited a couple of monasteries, admired the sunrise over the Himalayas, shopped for prayer wheels or singing bowls and drunk your fill of butter tea, there’s not an awful lot to do.

A statue of Lord Buddha is pictured at Kuensel Phodrang in Thimphu. Photo: Reuters

Walking, however, is essential, and it’s humbling as well as challenging. Visitors must get used to panting. Paro, Bhutan’s international airport, sits in a valley at an altitude of 2200 metres. Almost exactly the same altitude as Mount Kosciuszko, and, from Paro, just about everything is up.

Walking here takes you into thigh-burning territory, along forest paths where the trees are webbed with wild clematis or old man’s beard, known here as Dakini hair after the female sky dancers who assist Buddhists along the path to enlightenment. The trail will usually deliver you to a monastery, which are pitched high on the mountainsides for reasons of security as well as the essential quality of isolation.

The ParoTaktsang Palphug Buddhist monastery, also known as the Tiger’s Nest. Photo: Reuters

I’m on a high trail climbing towards the pass at Chele La when there’s an almighty howling. One of the dogs that has been accompanying us has invaded the territory of another. “Anger,” says Kuenzang Tobgay, my guide. “One of the three poisons that stands in the way of enlightenment.”

Although my prostrations might be less than perfect, if I can cling to that thought in traffic, in the supermarket queue or next time I’m on hold on the phone listening to inane music, Bhutan will have changed my life for the better.

 A boy and an elderly man are seen at a prayer wheel at the National Memorial Chorten in Thimpu. Photo: Reuters

MORE INFORMATION tourism.gov.bt

GETTING THERE Druk Air has daily flights from Bangkok and twice weekly flights from Singapore to Paro, the only international airport. See drukasia.com/Bhutan

New Zealand passport holders require a visa and must book their holiday through a Bhutanese tour operator or one of their international partners.

STAYING THERE Le Meridien is a new addition to Bhutan, the first Western-style hotel from one of the major hotel groups. Close to the heart of Thimphu, the capital, it offers a high level of comfort, style and amenities.

See starwoodhotels.com

The daily package price that all visitors are required to pay US$250 covers the cost of three-star hotel accommodation, meals, tours, guide services and transport. Visitors who choose to stay in more comfortable accommodation pay more.

Jordan Siemens, The writer travelled as a guest of Le Meridien Hotel in Thimphu.