Keys to Bhutan - Client Testimonials
Stark and Stunning
As we alighted from the plane onto the tarmac of one of the smallest international airports in the world, a picture-perfect sight greeted us. A quaint airport terminal surrounded by green mountains, so tranquil and beautiful even on a wet, grey morning, it simply took our breath away. We had landed in the Kingdom of Bhutan, one of the most isolated nations in the world with more than 70 per cent of the harsh terrain under forest cover.
We were a group of six women from Chennai(India) who had landed with a mission — to catch a glimpse of the tallest Himalayan peak in Bhutan, Mt. Chomolhari. It is considered the abode of the mountain goddess Chomo and is hence inaccessible to tourists. The closest view we were told is from the base camp at Jangothang at 13,222 ft. in the Jigme Dorji National Park, to which point we would need to trek.
Stepping into Bhutan is like taking a step back in time. Their monarch first introduced the concept of measuring a country's progress by the Gross National Happiness generated by the people, and it is no wonder that their country tops the list... The 21st century might never have happened. Yet, the younger generation is not unaware of the world outside.
Our holiday was luxurious enough for the first couple of days in Thimpu and Paro. We saw the national animal, the Takin, and the Dzongs that serve as the administrative and religious nerve centres. In the Thimpu Dzong, we were fortunate to catch a glimpse of Bhutan's religious head, the 71st Je Khenpo.
Put to test
We were put to test soon enough on a half-day trip to Taktsang, the most revered temple in Bhutan. The temple is perched high on a granite cliff some 800m above the Paro Valley and the walk through beautiful forests of poplar and pines is about 10 km in all. It gave us an idea of the terrain we would be up against and it possibly helped reassure our trek guide, ace photographer Gelay Jamtsho. For the first time, we encountered the ingenuous Bhutanese system of using running streams to power a rotating prayer wheel and a tinkling bell... a sight we would come across frequently in the countryside.
The next day, armed with walking sticks, light jackets, sun caps and high spirits, we set off. Enjoying the sunny weather, we walked through small villages and scenic farmlands on our way into the wilderness. For the first three days our trail followed the fresh water river, the Paro Chhu, through forests of blue pine thick with the dangling Spanish Moss that is believed to be an indicator of the level of oxygen in the air. The mountains were never far away in this stunning scenario.
The diversity of landscapes we encountered on the trek was spectacular. The changes were so unexpected; we were caught unawares every time. As we gained altitude, we saw the autumnal yellows and browns of the maple and larch trees. Beyond the tree line at about 13,000 ft. was alpine pastureland that the yaks grazed on, surrounded by the awesome snow-capped peaks and the rugged, rocky ridges. We came across vast tracts of moraines as well, on our way to the Bontey La that was at about 15,080 ft. We were in more than one sense, on top of the world!
Tough trek
We needed to remain focused on our walk though, as we were covering around 16 km a day. This trek has been classified as moderate to strenuous and requires a minimum of five to six hours of walking a day. We took water breaks, snack breaks, photo breaks to ease the strain, and we seemed to get better every day. Some days were tougher than others and some paths were more challenging. The paths that were covered with boulders took a lot of concentration as the ones that were steep descents. But it was the uphill climbs that proved most challenging.
The sounds of silence amplified the natural beauty around us. For days we saw no one — we seemed to have whole mountain ranges to ourselves! On the way to the base camp we came across an Indian Army camp and we stopped for a cup of tea. The jawans welcomed us but were plainly apprehensive about our adventure. One was less diplomatic; "Pagal log!" was his reaction!
The "Chomolhari-Yaksa" trek is an eight-day trek from Paro to Jangothang and back, through Yaksa. This trek is usually recommended for those who want to trek in the Bhutanese Himalayan ranges, but do not have the luxury of going on the longer Laya Lingshi trek.
Preparing well
Being properly equipped is very important on such a trek. It can make all the difference between struggling to do what you have to and enjoying the whole experience. Good trekking shoes, walking sticks, non-bulky warm clothing and good sleeping bags are absolute necessities. The temperatures ranged between 18 C and - 6 C, so we alternated between being too warm in the day and too cold at night. It is also important to eat well and keep yourself well-hydrated on the mountains. So we indulged ourselves on cheese and chillies (the national dish of Bhutan) red rice and vegetables, peanut butter and protein bars without a care. Suffice to say that we walked more than 130 km but did not lose any weight!
Bhutan is not about treks alone. It has so much more to offer. There is enough for the cultural tourist in the many Lhakhangs (temples) and Dzongs. There is enough for those interested in adventure in small doses too — such as the day treks. If the weather is clear, the flight into Paro too can be an adventure, for, the plane flies over the Everest, the Kanchenjunga, Chomolhari and other Himalayan peaks. But Bhutan is essentially for those who can savour the peace and quiet of an unobtrusive civilisation. "Kuzu Zongpa" (hope you are well in mind, body and spirit) to our Bhutanese friends!
© Copyright The Hindu, written by Rupa Srikanth for The Hindu, Inida's National Newspaper. This article appeared in the Feb 04, 2007 edition of the Hindu. ( Click here to view the original article )
> Rupa was on the Chomolhari Yaksa trek with 5 of her friends in September and October of 2006.
