Castle in the Air
Castles in the Air, Experiences and Journeys in Unknown Bhutan, by John Claude White, C.I.E., Late Political Officer of Sikkim, Bhutan and of such part of Tibet as fell within the sphere of British influence, is the name of an article that appeared in The National Geographic Magazine, in 1914.
John Claude White wrote “on nearing the fort, a bevy of girls met us below the almost perpendicular approach and sang us into the fort (Trongsa Dzong).”
In this tour we will try to trace his journey, from his point of entry in Paro to Bumthang, the then political center of the first king of Bhutan.
Day by Day Itinerary
Arrival in Paro – Thimphu (1.5 Hr)
Early morning flight to Paro, Bhutan (Please check the flight timing). The flight from Delhi/Kathmandu is considered as one of the most scenic flights offering the view of the world's top ten highest peaks. Upon your arrival at Paro airport, our guide will be there to welcome you and transfer to Thimphu. After lunch, visit the Memorial Chorten (temple) built in memory of the late 3rd King. This place now happens to be a get-together point for the elderly people, who spend their whole day chanting prayers and meeting their friends. Visit Changangkha Lhakhang, the oldest temple in the valley offering a beautiful view of the valley. Visit the enclosure where the national animal, Takins, are kept and drive to visit the largest and the newly built statue of Buddha offering a magnificent view of the entire Thimphu valley. After 5 PM, visit the fortress of Thimphu, Tashichho Dzong, which houses the throne of the king. Evening walk around the happening town, the largest and the most crowded town in Bhutan.
Thimphu – Phobjikha (4.5 Hrs)
Drive to the remote isolated valley of Phobjikha. The drive is very picturesque and worth every turn and climb. En route, cross over Dochula Pass (3,200m). If the weather permits, one can enjoy a spectacular breathtaking view of the highest mountain peaks of Bhutan at a sight that stretches almost 180 degrees. Take a break and walk around the 108 stupas before continuing. This valley is protected as it is the winter home for the endangered Black-Necked Cranes migrating to Bhutan every end of October to end of February. This valley is a paradise for nature lovers and hikers. Upon could visit the Crane Centre supported by the RSPN and meet Karma and Pema (injured cranes). Later, you could go for a short walk in the valley, or if you are too tired after the long drive, relax in the hotel and enjoy the breathtaking view of the valley. This is a very remote village and the hotel standard is very basic. Farmhouse stay optional or can have an option to visit a village and a farmhouse for lunch/dinner.
Phobjikha – Trongsa (2.5 Hrs)
Morning could go for a walk right below your hotel and meet the school children who all walk for hours to reach their nearest school. After breakfast, could go for the Phobjikha Nature Trail hike (2.5 Hrs), which offers a beautiful view of the valley. It starts from the valley and ends at Gangtey Goemba temple at the hilltop overlooking the valley. Gangtey Goemba temple is a beautiful temple, richly renovated with many monks living. Afternoon start your drive for Trongsa. Cross over Pelela Pass at 3,300m which forms the part of Black mountain range that divides the country into east and west. Enroute could take a short break and go for a short hike to the remote village of Rukubji or Chendibji Chorten. The drive is long but the landscape is picturesque and worth it. Upon arrival in Trongsa, relax in the hotel.
Trongsa – Jakar (2 Hrs)
Morning walk through the single lane town of Trongsa and visit the majestic Trongsa Dzong (Fortress), the home of the royals. Historically Trongsa Dzong is the most important Dzong and the largest as well. Also must visit the Ta Dzong, an ancient watchtower, which houses a unique museum. Later start driving for Jakar, crossing over Yotong La pass at 3,400m. After a short descend, en route just before arriving Jakar, stop in Chumi Valley, the weaving place, by the roadside where "Yatha" (wool weaving) is woven here which Bumthang is famous for. Continue your drive for Jakar crossing over Kiki La pass and finally descending to Jakar valley.
Jakar Sightseeing
Bumthang province consists of four different valleys known as Chumi, Jakar, Tang and Ura. This province is the most historical and one of the holiest places in Bhutan with so many temples and holy sites spread all around the province. Jakar is a beautiful valley and if you want to take a break and avoid driving, today's activity can be entirely done on foot. Visit Jampay Lhakhang, one of the first two Buddhist temples built in the country. Visit Kurjey Lhakhang temple, one of the holiest sites in Bhutan, this is also the site where the royals are cremated. Cross the suspension bridge, follow the dirt road and through the village of Parar and visit Tamshing Lhakhang temple. End your day with a walk passing by the Swiss farm. If time permits, visit the Jakar Dzong offering beautiful view of the valley. Evening stroll in Jakar town and try some local pancake and noodles.
Jakar Sightseeing (Tang Excursion)
Morning after breakfast drive to the remote isolated village of Tang. Due to its remoteness, very few tourists get to visit this village. The landscape is beautiful crossing through many small villages. Just before reaching Tang village, if you want to avoid driving, you have an option to take a shortcut by crossing the bridge and walk for about half an hour to the O'Chholing Palace, the ancestral home to the royal family of Tang region which is converted into a museum. Visit the unique museum of O'Chholing, which has very fine and unique collection of Bhutanese Arts and Artifacts. It covers and explains about all the history and details of Tang village activities during the olden days. Hot lunch in the museum guest house. Enjoy the calmness and the beautiful view of the Tang valley. Walk around the tiny village, meeting the locals, the shy children and interacting with them. Later drive back to Jakar.
Jakar – Punakha (6 Hrs)
Morning start retracing your drive westward to Punakha, passing by Trongsa town and crossing over Pele La pass and Yotong La pass. The drive is very picturesque and worth every turn and climb. Also take a short break at Chendebji Chorten. Upon arrival in the subtropical Punakha Valley, check into your hotel and relax.
Punakha Sightseeing
Morning drive to visit Punakha Dzong (fortress), which houses the most elaborated temple in the country. This is a must to see fortress in Bhutan and a fine example of Bhutanese rich Art and Architecture. After the visit if you are in mood for a nice half-day hike, you could start the hike right above the Dzong with a short steep climb offering a great view of the valley with houses spread all around and the never ending turquoise river and it’s sandy river bed. This trail is also popular for mountain biking. The hike ends through the farm field crossing the newly constructed bridge, where your car will be waiting at the other side of the river. If you choose the entire activity can be done on foot from your hotel. After lunch could go for an hour hike (uphill) to the temple of Khamsum Yuley Lakhang overlooking the paddy field and the snakelike river bends. If you are bit tired, could also drive for a short while towards Wangdi province and stop for a short hike to the ancient village of Rinchengang overlooking the ruins of Wangdi Dzong. It’s amazing how they have managed to be together with and preserve the old houses. Or could relax in the balcony of the hotel to enjoy the view and the nature.
Punakha – Paro (4 Hrs)
If you are staying in hotel Meri Puensum, hotel Zandopelri or hotel Densa, early morning it will be a treat to walk up to the hilltop to visit the nunnery and interact with the nuns and enjoy the magnificent view of Punakha and Wangdi valley. Later after breakfast, retrace the drive back to Paro crossing over Dochula La pass. Upon arrival in Paro, if time permits, visit Paro Dzong (Fortress) on foot and continue walking through the oldest wooden bridge still in use. Continue further to stroll around the old Paro town and peep into some local handicrafts stores. Evening back to the hotel.
Paro Sightseeing
Morning drive to the base for the hike to Tiger’s Nest, the most revered temple in the country that literally hangs on a granite cliff overlooking the Paro valley. Most of the day will go on the hike. The hike is a moderate to challenging trek leading to the iconic Paro Taktsang Monastery. The hike is approximately 7km round-trip, with an elevation gain of about 518 meters. It typically takes 5 to 6 hours to complete, including a stop at the halfway cafeteria. The trail offers stunning views of the Paro Valley and features prayer flags and a scenic waterfall. If you have energy visit the Kichu Lhakhang, one of the oldest temples in Bhutan which marks the beginning of Buddhism in the country. Hot stone bath available at an additional cost. Farewell dinner with your guide.
Departure
Morning transfer (15 mins) to the airport for your departure flight. Your guide will bid you farewell at the airport.
Some Useful Bhutanese Phrases
- Hello Ku-zu-zam-po-la (meaning good health)
- Thank You Ka din chey la
- See You Lok jey gay
- Good Bye Lus la / Laso la
Visual Journey
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