Bhutan opens up more entry point for visitor

Govt. to allow entry of regional tourists through all border towns

The National Assembly on 18th Jan, 2019,  endorsed entry and exit of regional tourists through the border towns of Samdrupjongkhar, Gelephu, Samtse, Nganglam, and Panbang.

Currently, Phuentsholing is the only entry point for regional tourists.

However, entry and exit would be allowed from these points with a condition that the tourists use Bhutanese vehicles and guides. This is to ensure security.

Of the 43 members, 40 voted “Yes’, two voted ‘No’, and one abstained from voting. The government is also likely to consider entry and exit through Lhamoizingkha and Jomotshangkha.

The House also endorsed the proposal to open direct flights between Guwahati to Yongphula, Bumthang and Gelephu with 40 ‘Yes’ votes. Three voted ‘No.’

Dewathang-Gomdar MP, Ugyen Dorji, moved the motion to institute special and targeted measures to promote tourism for balanced regional development. He said that tourism was an important sector for development.

In 2017, Bhutan recorded tourist arrival of 254,704, of which 183,287 were regional tourists. The sector contributed USD 79,807 to the exchequer.

While the sector has benefited the country in terms of revenue and employment generation, Ugyen Dorji said that not all 20 dzongkhags shared its benefits equitably. “Only a handful of dzongkhags have reaped its benefits. The others are lagging behind.”

Paro had the highest number of international arrivals at 27.5 percent in 2017, followed by Thimphu and Punakha with 26.4 and 23.1 percent respectively. Wangdue saw 7.9 percent arrivals while Bumthang received 5.1 percent of the arrivals.

The rest of the dzongkhags saw less than five percent of the total arrivals in the country. Pemagatshel, Tsirang, and Dagana did not receive any tourist in 2017.

Despite effort by the past government to promote tourism in the east, Ugyen Dorji said that nothing significant had happened to date. He said it would be difficult to ensure equal and equitable distribution of tourists throughout all 20 dzongkhags.

In terms of physical facilities, he said there was a need to provide adequate facilities, improve roads, open additional flight routes, both domestic and international, and put in place favourable policies.

“The need of the hour is to come up with targeted measures to promote and boost tourism in these regions so that the benefits of tourism is shared equitably by the people of all dzongkhags,” he said. “This will bridge the gap between the rich and the poor and ensure equity and justice, leading to the much-desired regional development.”

Draagteng-Langthil MP Gyem Dorji said that it was important first to have basic infrastructure like toilets. He said that there should be measures in place to address issues like the improper management of waste.

He said the regional tourists were seen bringing their own vehicles and affected the income generation of the people in the country.

On opening direct flights from Guwahati to Yongphula, Bumthang and Gelephu, he said that it was important to consider consulting with the airlines.

While the house agreed on the need to institute special and targeted measures to promote tourism for balanced regional development, it had a thorough discussion on the advantages and risks of opening additional entry points for regional tourists and direct flights from Guwahati to the three domestic airports in the country.

Phuentshogpelri-Samtse MP, Ganesh Ghimiray, said that he supported the proposal to allow additional entry points for the tourist in the country because it was the wish of the people of Samtse. “This was also one of our pledges.”

However, he said there were negative impacts and it was important to have measures in place for sustainable tourism management.

Prime Minister Dr Lotay Tshering said that Druk Nyamrup Tshogpa pledged to look into the entry and exit point issue during its campaign. “It is also clearly stated in our party manifesto to promote tourism and also look into the entry and exit point issues. I don’t think the members would not support this.”

Dechen Tshomo

Source – Kuensel

 

5 best places to travel in 2018

Bhutan, Iran, Colombia, Scotland, Portugal

 

The Six Senses lodge in Bhutan’s Punakha Valley is due to open in 2018.
The Six Senses lodge in Bhutan’s Punakha Valley is due to open in 2018.

1. Bhutan

Few cars, moving at your own pace, a bed for the night in complete luxury or in the care of a Buddhist homeowner: this is a journey of the most personal kind and Bhutan is enjoying new interest, especially from those seeking achievement travel, the formidable 25-day Snowman Trek being a case in point.

The kingdom that pioneered the concept of Gross National Happiness is on a mini roll, with a program of infrastructure upgrades, new accommodation agreements with hoteliers and simpler entry requirements. The international airport at Paro has a new terminal and the few roads around Bhutan are being widened. Wi-Fi is spreading and lodgings are plentiful.

“Most tourism activities in Bhutan are organised by government-approved operators,” explains James Irving from Bhutan and Beyond. “This even includes hiking, which is about immersing yourself in lowland landscapes and visiting Bhutanese villages, while trekking takes place on designated mountain trails,” he says. “However, in Bhutan, unlike neighbouring Nepal, conventional mountaineering is prohibited because all mountains are considered sacred.”

Trekking in Bhutan.
Trekking in Bhutan. Jane Reddy

Bhutan has long been desirable to the discerning traveller, thanks to its high-value, low-volume approach to tourism. Visas are mandatory and their steep cost – a minimum of $US250 ($330) a person a day in high season – contribute to Bhutan’s reputation as being ruinously expensive.

But, as Irving explains, only $US40 of this is, strictly speaking, the government visa. The rest of that daily rate covers accommodation (a minimum level of a three-star hotel), a driver and a four-wheel drive vehicle, a guide, food (as part of the accommodation deal) and all other government fees.

After a day’s rambling around the Himalayas, the thought of a soft bed, hot food and, if you’re lucky, a deep bath is beyond sublime. Six Senses Lodges will unveil its five luxury lodges next year, with each to be located in Bhutan’s five valleys of Thimphu, Punakha, Gangtey, Bumthang and Paro. If you want yoga retreat bragging rights, then eco-luxe Singapore hotelier COMO (best known in Australia for its stylish hotel The Treasury in Perth) offers lofty luxury with a week-long yoga retreat at its two lodges in Bhutan in the second half of next year.

“Yet”, as Irving says, “a simple bed in a homestay house may be just the thing for a little more personal happiness.”

A woman in a patterned chador enters a mosque in Iran.
A woman in a patterned chador enters a mosque in Iran.

2. Iran

Iran is a destination on a surge, says Serena Mitchell from luxury travel operator Abercrombie and Kent. Her firm has chalked up a whopping 75 per cent increase in visitor numbers since 2016. Various factors, she believes, have synchronised to endow the 5000-year-old nation with renewed popularity, in particular the nuclear deal signed in 2015 and the re-establishment of Western embassies.

Aside from popular Tehran, interest in largely unseen historic locations has dramatically soared. Mitchell cites some of the most sought-after locations as Persepolis, the ruined capital of Persia founded in 518BC, the ancient city of Isfahan with its extraordinary Imam Mosque and UNESCO World Heritage-listed Naqsh-e Jahan Square, and the 4000-year-old city of Shiraz, home to tombs, rose gardens, the Pink Mosque, madrassas and the lively Vakil Bazaar. Jenny Gray from Intrepid Travel says easier visa requirements are another pull factor. “Once you have an authorisation code after booking, you can get a visa on arrival which makes the process much simpler,” she says.

Tehran has a clutch of elegant hotels in which you can base yourself, one of the most lavish being the Espinas Palace Hotel which opened in early 2016. According to the country’s Cultural Heritage, Handicrafts and Tourism Organisation, there are a staggering 125 luxury hotels in the pipeline.

The World Heritage-listed ruins at Persepolis.
The World Heritage-listed ruins at Persepolis.

Yet increasingly the drawcard is cultural immersion, or to stray from the cliché and interact one on one with locals on their own turf. Food and walking tours for adventurous gourmands are especially popular. Matin Lashkari and Shirin Tahanan’s Persian Food Tours offers guided walking tours to Tehran’s Tajrish Bazaar, followed by cooking classes in which jewelled rice – rice slathered in butter and saffron – is a principal ingredient.

“The tour usually ends with a traditional lunch from the Gilan Province of northern Iran,” says Lashkari, who is also a fount of information on Iranian road trips.

Interest in the regions of Iran is buoyant. There are mountain ranges two hours’ north of Tehran, with well-run ski fields in Dizin. Mohsen Adib from Iran Desert Tours says that northern Iran and the coastal forests and mountains around the southern Caspian Sea are the new must-visit regions. Spanish-owned Meliá Hotels will open a five-star hotel, the Gran Meliá Ghoo, next year on the shores of the Caspian.

Jenny Gray from Intrepid reckons that the 1000-year-old northern town of Masuleh is about as traditional as it gets in Iran. The town sits beneath brooding Mount Talesh and its rooftops and streets combine – yes, you walk on the rooftops and courtyards to get about. If you love locomotives, it’s all aboard with television train tragic (and ex-British MP) Michael Portillo, who’ll be hosting guest lectures on the Golden Eagle Luxury Trains’ Persian Odyssey in April 2018.

Grilled sardines are a local favourite in Porto, Portugal.
Grilled sardines are a local favourite in Porto, Portugal.

3. Portugal

When, in 2014, Portugal wrenched itself out of a three-year bailout from the rest of the eurozone, it instantly perked up. It had hit rock bottom with quarter upon quarter of negative growth. Even its most celebrated export, port fortified wine, could be picked up for a song. Then low-cost airlines began expanding with new domestic routes while punishing, yet successful, economic reforms combined to drive tourism.

Portugal was hailed as one of the eurozone’s standout economies and really began pumping in 2015, with a spate of new hotels, museums and Michelin-starred restaurants (21 in the latest guide). Spain is keeping a wary eye on its hot-to-trot neighbour.

Lisbon’s creative scene has made it the newest of the “new Berlins”. See what all the fuss is about by dropping into the LX Factory, a brilliant example of urban regeneration. Built on the shell of a former industrial site, the enclave was established in 2008, survived the eurozone crisis and now, almost a decade later, is a thriving hub of studios and design shops.

But while Lisbon is hot, Porto might be even hotter. The country’s second-largest city is buzzing as intently as the capital, thanks in part to new hubs at Francisco de Sá Carneiro Airport. According to Ana Bessa from the Porto Convention and Tourist Bureau, international visitor nights to Porto leapt 18 per cent in 2015-2016 and already, for the first half of this year, have soared 14 per cent. Off-season interest in Portugal via search websites – anything prior to May and after September – is up a colossal 80 per cent, according to American Express Travel.

Swathes of new hotels, such as the Pestana A Brazileira, are emblematic of the buzz around Porto. Opening earlier this year, the A Brazileira has used the successful strategy of repurposing an old warehouse into a smart, 90-room, five-star hotel.

More recently, the 67-room Vila Galé Porto Ribeira opened alongside the Douro River and then there’s the delicious Hotel Yeatman, Michelin-starred and perched on a hillside overlooking the Vila Nova de Gaia municipality, where many of the old port merchants had wine barges and warehouses. This is 82 rooms of luxury for wine buffs and reinforces Porto’s food haven status.

Note: to really enjoy Porto, it helps if you love sardines; they’re a local favourite, especially when served in petiscos, the Portuguese version of tapas.

The skyline of Porto, Portugal, where a swathe of new hotels have sprung up.
The skyline of Porto, Portugal, where a swathe of new hotels have sprung up.

4. Scotland

The hype surrounding the small screen’s Outlander and Shetland series, plus interest from adventure seekers and history buffs, are helping drive Scottish tourism, which rose by 6 per cent during 2016, according to the latest figures from Visit Scotland.

Away from the population centres of Edinburgh and Glasgow, the Highlands and islands offer traditional lodgings such as grand country houses set in wild landscapes. If it’s epic and forbidding grandeur you’re after, then Glencoe House, complete with a loch, will fit the Highlands bill. Or there’s the Fife Arms Hotel in Braemar, which is being restored to its Victorian splendour and opens next year.

There are two cultures at play in Scotland, each based loosely on the environment: the western islands, such as tweedy Harris and monastically spiritual Iona off the Isle of Mull, together with the softer lowlands and borderlands of the south compete with the dramatic Highlands in the north. Scotland’s northern regions are as much about going wild – such as swimming in Loch Ness and camping in the Cairngorm Mountains – as they are about chilling in the 2017-opened spa carriage of the opulent Belmond Royal Scotsman train, with its sumptuous sleeper carriages for 36 cocooned travellers.

Owned by the same company behind the legendary Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, it’s the ultimate way to glide about the Highlands and about as decadent (and pricey) as it gets. For something a little more authentic, Visit Scotland is toying with the idea of visitors experiencing life with fisherfolk on a working trawler.

Expedition cruising around islands such as the Shetlands and Orkneys with their Scandinavian influences (the accents are fascinating) is burgeoning, says Rob Tandy of luxury travel operator Captain’s Choice, which offers offers a range of cruise options.

One of the most pleasant ways to journey through northern Scotland is by driving the new North Coast 500, known as the NC500. You can spend a week slowly cruising the Highlands, ticking off whisky distilleries and bedding down in luxury lodgings such as the Georgian Boath House in Nairn and the Bighouse Lodge in Sutherland. The drive kicks off in Inverness and follows the coastline of north-west Scotland for 800 kilometres. As you spin about the Highlands (an Aston Martin Vantage can be arranged), you might ponder why the softer southern regions have become such stars with their easier climes and handsome cities.

One place that is crushing it in terms of ultimate on-trend city neighbourhoods is the Edinburgh suburb of Leith, where Irvine Welsh’s novel Trainspotting was set. A wholesale regeneration has seen shipping replaced with dockside restaurants and character-filled bars. Meanwhile, further north in Dundee, an offshoot of London’s Victoria & Albert Museum is being built. Dundee’s V&A Museum of Design is designed by star-architect Kengo Kuma, the architect of Tokyo’s 2020 Olympic Stadium, and will be a major Scottish drawcard once it opens in 2018.

The 15th-century Castle Sinclair Girnigoe in Caithness.
The 15th-century Castle Sinclair Girnigoe in Caithness.

5. Colombia

When mass tourism reached Colombia about 20 years ago, the trailblazers were exclusively younger travellers, according to Meg Hall of specialist South American travel agent Chimu Adventures. The country had big drawcards: Amazonian rainforest, the Andes, spectacular coastal landscapes and the intoxicating mix of Indigenous and Spanish cultures across music, architecture and food. But only devil-may-care backpackers were sufficiently unperturbed by the country’s lawless reputation.

Fast-forward to 2015: the war with the guerillas of the Farc army was grinding to a halt, optimism was soaring and visitor numbers began to spike. Figures from the government agency, ProColombia, show a 33 per cent rise in the first half of 2017. Backpackers have morphed into a more cashed-up tourist who has binged on the Netflix series Narcos, which was shot in Colombia’s second-largest city, Medellín, as well as some exquisite cloud forest locations. Hall says that in 2016, following the peace deal with Farc, Colombia became South America’s hot spot almost overnight.

Hall suggests travellers begin in the capital city Bogotá with its mushrooming micro-breweries and cobblestoned colonial quarter of La Calendaria. Then head 400 kilometres north-west to Medellín before moving up to World Heritage-listed Cartagena.

Medellín used to be overflowing with cocaine, stray bullets, fat cigars and casual violence. Twenty-three years after the death of drug lord Pablo Escobar, it’s all hip aesthetics mixed with Spanish colonialism.

Medellín architects such as David Bombilla are helming this new look: new-fangled bars and sleek restaurants pop up almost monthly, with the Panorama bar easily the buzziest, says Camilo Uribe from Medellín City Tours, who runs a Pablo Escobar Tour. “Even though locals don’t like us selling these tours, we manage to provide an image of the new Medellín,” he says. His top pick for a restaurant is El Cielo.

In 2018 Silversea Cruises will begin calling into the city of Cartagena. Durán Angel Eduardo, owner of Cartagena’s Duran Duran Tours, runs a Gabriel García Márquez tour, which shows the city through the eyes of Colombia’s Nobel prize-winning author. He’ll also take you through its laneways to the celebrated Puerta del Reloj (gatehouse to the old walled city) and the famed Castillo San Felipe de Barajas.

We suggest you get to Colombia before it’s overrun: ProColombia claims that between 2015 and 2016, visitors to both Cartagena and Medellín were up 22 per cent.

Bolívar Square and the city’s cathedral in Bogotá.
Bolívar Square and the city’s cathedral in Bogotá.

Source- AFR Magazine

Government waives off Sustainable Development Fee to promote east Bhutan

Sustainable Development Fee (SDF) waiver for tourists visiting the six eastern dzongkhags came into effect from November 16, 2017.

An official with Tourism Council of Bhutan (TCB) said the tour operators who have already operated groups in the six eastern dzongkhags from November 16 last year could contact TCB to process for refund of SDF. “Strict verification will be carried out as per the approved guideline.”

TCB issued a notification on February 15 saying that no SDF will be applicable for the tourists visiting Mongar, Samdrupjongkhar, Lhuentse, Trashiyangtse, Trashigang and Pemagatshel.

SDF is a fee of USD 65 levied per person per night halt. The amount is included in the minimum daily package rate (MDPR), which is the minimum amount that has to be paid per person per night halt.

With the exemption, the tourist visiting the six eastern dzongkhags will now have to pay only USD 135 during the lean season and USD 185 during the peak season. The exemption of royalty will be implemented for three years.

International leisure tourists staying overnight or longer in the eastern circuit are eligible for SDF wavier. The total amount to be waved off will be calculated based on the duration of stay in the eastern circuit.

Finance minister proposed the Tourism Levy Exemption Bill, which was introduced as a money bill to the Parliament on November 16. A Money Bill, if approved, will come into effect from the date it is introduced in the Assembly.

The official said the Guideline for Wavier of Sustainable Development Fee (SDF) in the Eastern Circuit will be revised from time to time.

MDPR for the eastern circuit covers a TCB certified accommodation facility (minimum three-star in case of hotels) and meals, a licensed Bhutanese tour guide for the entire duration of stay, internal land transport, and camping equipment and haulage for trekking tours. Additional charges have to be paid for availing services that are not covered under MDPR.

The guideline states that surcharges for small groups will be based on the existing provisions in the Tourism Rules and Regulations (TRR) 2017.

The official said TCB’s Quality Assurance Division would carry out monitoring and inspection from time to time with support from the dzongkhags, gewog authorities and other relevant agencies to ensure compliance with the guideline.

TCB certified hotels, home stays, campsites and providers of porter services will provide or facilitate access to documents or information required by TCB for monitoring and verification.

“The regional tourism office in Monger will also carry out inspection and monitoring from time to time once it is established,” the officials said.

Records with the immigration checkpoints about tourists entering and exiting eastern Bhutan will be used to facilitate monitoring and verification by the TCB.

If found not conducting tours as per the approved itinerary, in addition to fines as per the TRR 2017, tour operators will be liable for payment of SDF for the duration of stay.

The guideline also includes visa and payment application procedures.

Source Kuensel (Dechen Tshomo)

5 places to travel to in 2018: Bhutan, Iran, Colombia, Scotland, Portugal

5 places to travel to in 2018: Bhutan, Iran, Colombia, Scotland, Portugal

The Six Senses lodge in Bhutan’s Punakha Valley is due to open in 2018.The Six Senses lodge in Bhutan’s Punakha Valley is due to open in 2018.

 

“Travel these days is all about doing not seeing,” says Brett Godfrey, who travels about 40 times a year for work and pleasure. The former head of Virgin Australia says the fact that we’re living longer and healthier means we want to experience more from our travels. Hence the cooking classes taught in a trullo in Puglia, leaf peeping while peddling around New England in the Fall, and small-ship expeditions around the Bosphorus with accompanying lectures on Byzantine art.

An extension of “doing not seeing” is cultural immersion. Lodging with a family of Japanese artisan ceramicists might seem like a highly specific interest. But such specificity is how the smart tourism operators are carving their niche away from the masses.

Bernadette Holmes of Wendy Wu Tours has achieved success by hunting within the Venn diagram of those travellers who love cruising and others who are fascinated by China. “They want to delve deeper into Asia,” she says. “River cruise forward bookings in China have increased by 51 per cent for 2018 with the Three Gorges Tour up 100 per cent.”

Achievement tourism is also thriving, as James Irving from Bhutan and Beyond explains: “The over-50s professional female traveller is the core of our business. She wants adventure and a tough challenge, but with a good bed.” It’s the same type of customer who uses Godfrey’s Tasmanian Walking Company to march along the fabled Overland Track. “That sector is our sweet spot,” says Godfrey, adding that travel with a bit of adventure in a pristine environment is tourism’s fastest-growing sector.

Geography-wise, some countries suddenly become sweeter. Economies on a rise will increase their tourism budgets. New airline routes spur on newer hotels and best-in-class dining. Your Instagram filter fills up and before you know it, everyone is talking about the new place to go. Here’s our guide to five of the best destinations in 2018.

1. Bhutan

Few cars, moving at your own pace, a bed for the night in complete luxury or in the care of a Buddhist homeowner: this is a journey of the most personal kind and Bhutan is enjoying new interest, especially from those seeking achievement travel, the formidable 25-day Snowman Trek being a case in point.

The kingdom that pioneered the concept of Gross National Happiness is on a mini roll, with a program of infrastructure upgrades, new accommodation agreements with hoteliers and simpler entry requirements. The international airport at Paro has a new terminal and the few roads around Bhutan are being widened. Wi-Fi is spreading and lodgings are plentiful.

“Most tourism activities in Bhutan are organised by government-approved operators,” explains James Irving from Bhutan and Beyond. “This even includes hiking, which is about immersing yourself in lowland landscapes and visiting Bhutanese villages, while trekking takes place on designated mountain trails,” he says. “However, in Bhutan, unlike neighbouring Nepal, conventional mountaineering is prohibited because all mountains are considered sacred.”

Trekking in Bhutan.
Trekking in Bhutan. Jane Reddy

 

Bhutan has long been desirable to the discerning traveller, thanks to its high-value, low-volume approach to tourism. Visas are mandatory and their steep cost – a minimum of $US250 ($330) a person a day in high season – contribute to Bhutan’s reputation as being ruinously expensive.

But, as Irving explains, only $US40 of this is, strictly speaking, the government visa. The rest of that daily rate covers accommodation (a minimum level of a three-star hotel), a driver and a four-wheel drive vehicle, a guide, food (as part of the accommodation deal) and all other government fees.

After a day’s rambling around the Himalayas, the thought of a soft bed, hot food and, if you’re lucky, a deep bath is beyond sublime. Six Senses Lodges will unveil its five luxury lodges next year, with each to be located in Bhutan’s five valleys of Thimphu, Punakha, Gangtey, Bumthang and Paro. If you want yoga retreat bragging rights, then eco-luxe Singapore hotelier COMO (best known in Australia for its stylish hotel The Treasury in Perth) offers lofty luxury with a week-long yoga retreat at its two lodges in Bhutan in the second half of next year.

“Yet”, as Irving says, “a simple bed in a homestay house may be just the thing for a little more personal happiness.”

A woman in a patterned chador enters a mosque in Iran.
A woman in a patterned chador enters a mosque in Iran.

2. Iran

Iran is a destination on a surge, says Serena Mitchell from luxury travel operator Abercrombie and Kent. Her firm has chalked up a whopping 75 per cent increase in visitor numbers since 2016. Various factors, she believes, have synchronised to endow the 5000-year-old nation with renewed popularity, in particular the nuclear deal signed in 2015 and the re-establishment of Western embassies.

Aside from popular Tehran, interest in largely unseen historic locations has dramatically soared. Mitchell cites some of the most sought-after locations as Persepolis, the ruined capital of Persia founded in 518BC, the ancient city of Isfahan with its extraordinary Imam Mosque and UNESCO World Heritage-listed Naqsh-e Jahan Square, and the 4000-year-old city of Shiraz, home to tombs, rose gardens, the Pink Mosque, madrassas and the lively Vakil Bazaar. Jenny Gray from Intrepid Travel says easier visa requirements are another pull factor. “Once you have an authorisation code after booking, you can get a visa on arrival which makes the process much simpler,” she says.

Tehran has a clutch of elegant hotels in which you can base yourself, one of the most lavish being the Espinas Palace Hotel which opened in early 2016. According to the country’s Cultural Heritage, Handicrafts and Tourism Organisation, there are a staggering 125 luxury hotels in the pipeline.

The World Heritage-listed ruins at Persepolis.
The World Heritage-listed ruins at Persepolis.

 

Yet increasingly the drawcard is cultural immersion, or to stray from the cliché and interact one on one with locals on their own turf. Food and walking tours for adventurous gourmands are especially popular. Matin Lashkari and Shirin Tahanan’s Persian Food Tours offers guided walking tours to Tehran’s Tajrish Bazaar, followed by cooking classes in which jewelled rice – rice slathered in butter and saffron – is a principal ingredient.

“The tour usually ends with a traditional lunch from the Gilan Province of northern Iran,” says Lashkari, who is also a fount of information on Iranian road trips.

Interest in the regions of Iran is buoyant. There are mountain ranges two hours’ north of Tehran, with well-run ski fields in Dizin. Mohsen Adib from Iran Desert Tours says that northern Iran and the coastal forests and mountains around the southern Caspian Sea are the new must-visit regions. Spanish-owned Meliá Hotels will open a five-star hotel, the Gran Meliá Ghoo, next year on the shores of the Caspian.

Jenny Gray from Intrepid reckons that the 1000-year-old northern town of Masuleh is about as traditional as it gets in Iran. The town sits beneath brooding Mount Talesh and its rooftops and streets combine – yes, you walk on the rooftops and courtyards to get about. If you love locomotives, it’s all aboard with television train tragic (and ex-British MP) Michael Portillo, who’ll be hosting guest lectures on the Golden Eagle Luxury Trains’ Persian Odyssey in April 2018.

Grilled sardines are a local favourite in Porto, Portugal.
Grilled sardines are a local favourite in Porto, Portugal.

3. Portugal

When, in 2014, Portugal wrenched itself out of a three-year bailout from the rest of the eurozone, it instantly perked up. It had hit rock bottom with quarter upon quarter of negative growth. Even its most celebrated export, port fortified wine, could be picked up for a song. Then low-cost airlines began expanding with new domestic routes while punishing, yet successful, economic reforms combined to drive tourism.

Portugal was hailed as one of the eurozone’s standout economies and really began pumping in 2015, with a spate of new hotels, museums and Michelin-starred restaurants (21 in the latest guide). Spain is keeping a wary eye on its hot-to-trot neighbour.

Lisbon’s creative scene has made it the newest of the “new Berlins”. See what all the fuss is about by dropping into the LX Factory, a brilliant example of urban regeneration. Built on the shell of a former industrial site, the enclave was established in 2008, survived the eurozone crisis and now, almost a decade later, is a thriving hub of studios and design shops.

But while Lisbon is hot, Porto might be even hotter. The country’s second-largest city is buzzing as intently as the capital, thanks in part to new hubs at Francisco de Sá Carneiro Airport. According to Ana Bessa from the Porto Convention and Tourist Bureau, international visitor nights to Porto leapt 18 per cent in 2015-2016 and already, for the first half of this year, have soared 14 per cent. Off-season interest in Portugal via search websites – anything prior to May and after September – is up a colossal 80 per cent, according to American Express Travel.

Swathes of new hotels, such as the Pestana A Brazileira, are emblematic of the buzz around Porto. Opening earlier this year, the A Brazileira has used the successful strategy of repurposing an old warehouse into a smart, 90-room, five-star hotel.

More recently, the 67-room Vila Galé Porto Ribeira opened alongside the Douro River and then there’s the delicious Hotel Yeatman, Michelin-starred and perched on a hillside overlooking the Vila Nova de Gaia municipality, where many of the old port merchants had wine barges and warehouses. This is 82 rooms of luxury for wine buffs and reinforces Porto’s food haven status.

Note: to really enjoy Porto, it helps if you love sardines; they’re a local favourite, especially when served in petiscos, the Portuguese version of tapas.

The skyline of Porto, Portugal, where a swathe of new hotels have sprung up.
The skyline of Porto, Portugal, where a swathe of new hotels have sprung up.

4. Scotland

The hype surrounding the small screen’s Outlander and Shetland series, plus interest from adventure seekers and history buffs, are helping drive Scottish tourism, which rose by 6 per cent during 2016, according to the latest figures from Visit Scotland.

Away from the population centres of Edinburgh and Glasgow, the Highlands and islands offer traditional lodgings such as grand country houses set in wild landscapes. If it’s epic and forbidding grandeur you’re after, then Glencoe House, complete with a loch, will fit the Highlands bill. Or there’s the Fife Arms Hotel in Braemar, which is being restored to its Victorian splendour and opens next year.

There are two cultures at play in Scotland, each based loosely on the environment: the western islands, such as tweedy Harris and monastically spiritual Iona off the Isle of Mull, together with the softer lowlands and borderlands of the south compete with the dramatic Highlands in the north. Scotland’s northern regions are as much about going wild – such as swimming in Loch Ness and camping in the Cairngorm Mountains – as they are about chilling in the 2017-opened spa carriage of the opulent Belmond Royal Scotsman train, with its sumptuous sleeper carriages for 36 cocooned travellers.

Owned by the same company behind the legendary Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, it’s the ultimate way to glide about the Highlands and about as decadent (and pricey) as it gets. For something a little more authentic, Visit Scotland is toying with the idea of visitors experiencing life with fisherfolk on a working trawler.

Expedition cruising around islands such as the Shetlands and Orkneys with their Scandinavian influences (the accents are fascinating) is burgeoning, says Rob Tandy of luxury travel operator Captain’s Choice, which offers offers a range of cruise options.

One of the most pleasant ways to journey through northern Scotland is by driving the new North Coast 500, known as the NC500. You can spend a week slowly cruising the Highlands, ticking off whisky distilleries and bedding down in luxury lodgings such as the Georgian Boath House in Nairn and the Bighouse Lodge in Sutherland. The drive kicks off in Inverness and follows the coastline of north-west Scotland for 800 kilometres. As you spin about the Highlands (an Aston Martin Vantage can be arranged), you might ponder why the softer southern regions have become such stars with their easier climes and handsome cities.

One place that is crushing it in terms of ultimate on-trend city neighbourhoods is the Edinburgh suburb of Leith, where Irvine Welsh’s novel Trainspotting was set. A wholesale regeneration has seen shipping replaced with dockside restaurants and character-filled bars. Meanwhile, further north in Dundee, an offshoot of London’s Victoria & Albert Museum is being built. Dundee’s V&A Museum of Design is designed by star-architect Kengo Kuma, the architect of Tokyo’s 2020 Olympic Stadium, and will be a major Scottish drawcard once it opens in 2018.

The 15th-century Castle Sinclair Girnigoe in Caithness.
The 15th-century Castle Sinclair Girnigoe in Caithness.

5. Colombia

When mass tourism reached Colombia about 20 years ago, the trailblazers were exclusively younger travellers, according to Meg Hall of specialist South American travel agent Chimu Adventures. The country had big drawcards: Amazonian rainforest, the Andes, spectacular coastal landscapes and the intoxicating mix of Indigenous and Spanish cultures across music, architecture and food. But only devil-may-care backpackers were sufficiently unperturbed by the country’s lawless reputation.

Fast-forward to 2015: the war with the guerillas of the Farc army was grinding to a halt, optimism was soaring and visitor numbers began to spike. Figures from the government agency, ProColombia, show a 33 per cent rise in the first half of 2017. Backpackers have morphed into a more cashed-up tourist who has binged on the Netflix series Narcos, which was shot in Colombia’s second-largest city, Medellín, as well as some exquisite cloud forest locations. Hall says that in 2016, following the peace deal with Farc, Colombia became South America’s hot spot almost overnight.

Hall suggests travellers begin in the capital city Bogotá with its mushrooming micro-breweries and cobblestoned colonial quarter of La Calendaria. Then head 400 kilometres north-west to Medellín before moving up to World Heritage-listed Cartagena.

Medellín used to be overflowing with cocaine, stray bullets, fat cigars and casual violence. Twenty-three years after the death of drug lord Pablo Escobar, it’s all hip aesthetics mixed with Spanish colonialism.

Medellín architects such as David Bombilla are helming this new look: new-fangled bars and sleek restaurants pop up almost monthly, with the Panorama bar easily the buzziest, says Camilo Uribe from Medellín City Tours, who runs a Pablo Escobar Tour. “Even though locals don’t like us selling these tours, we manage to provide an image of the new Medellín,” he says. His top pick for a restaurant is El Cielo.

In 2018 Silversea Cruises will begin calling into the city of Cartagena. Durán Angel Eduardo, owner of Cartagena’s Duran Duran Tours, runs a Gabriel García Márquez tour, which shows the city through the eyes of Colombia’s Nobel prize-winning author. He’ll also take you through its laneways to the celebrated Puerta del Reloj (gatehouse to the old walled city) and the famed Castillo San Felipe de Barajas.

We suggest you get to Colombia before it’s overrun: ProColombia claims that between 2015 and 2016, visitors to both Cartagena and Medellín were up 22 per cent.

Bolívar Square and the city’s cathedral in Bogotá.

Source- CNN

BHUTAN-AUSTRALIA FRIENDSHIP OFFER

BHUTAN-AUSTRALIA FRIENDSHIP OFFER

The year 2017 is a special occasion for the Kingdom of Bhutan and Australia as it marks 15 years of diplomatic relations between the two countries.

To commemorate this happy occasion, the Royal Government of Bhutan is pleased to present the “Bhutan – Australia Friendship Offer” to welcome all nationals of Australia to visit Bhutan in 2018.

What is the Bhutan – Australia Friendship Offer?

It is a one-time special package that is being offered to all nationals of Australia visiting Bhutan in June, July and August, 2018. The offer includes the following:

  1. Visitors may choose not to pay the all-inclusive mandatory minimum daily package rate of US$ 200 per person per night. Instead, they will pay only the government Sustainable Development Fee of US$ 65 per person per night.
  2. Visitors can avail discounted fare on Airlines.
  3. Visitors can avail up to 50 % discounts in partnering Hotels (See the list of hotels attached separately below).
  4. Visitors have flexibility / choice of services.
  5. Visitors do not have to pay the surcharge of US$ 40 per person per night and US$ 30 each for two persons.
  6. Special airport reception on arrival of the 1st Group

Terms and conditions:

  1. The offer is valid from 1st June 2018 to 31st August 2018.
  2. The offer is for the nationals of Australia only.
  3. Visitors should book their trip through a licensed Bhutanese tour operator.
  4. A one time visa fee of US$ 40 is applicable.

 

Bhutan, where the pursuit of Happiness is economic goal

The country where the pursuit of happiness is a national, economic goal

Thimphu, Bhutan: Given significant levels of dissatisfaction with the performance of politicians in Western democracies, what can we learn from a country that assesses all of its government policies based on how much they contribute to the happiness of its people?

Looking at the stats, Disneyland may have to give up its claim to being The Happiest Place on Earth. Bhutan’s recent Gross National Happiness Index found 91 per cent of its citizens are happy, with almost 50 per cent of people being deeply happy or extensively happy.

Come to the think of it, Disney’s claim to being The Magic Kingdom also gets a run for its money from Bhutan. With its mist-shrouded mountains, ubiquitous monks and universal acceptance of reincarnation, there is a real sense of magic here.

The story of the monarchy rivals any Cinderella, Mulan or Pocahontas tale. A benevolent king devolves his power to a democratically elected parliament. He then resigns early to hand over the role to his handsome son and his glamorous, humble and compassionate princess. Together the family lives in a couple of single-level bungalows in the nation’s capital, Thimphu, having refused overtures from the parliament to build them a grand palace.

Photos of the young king, his queen and their new son adorn most houses and businesses. These are not stiff monarchical portraits, rather they could be snaps from a family album, with the young couple kissing, holding hands or, together with the former king, playing with the young prince.

This is not a place caught in time warp – there has never been anywhere like Bhutan. This is a unique Himalayan kingdom whose borders have never been invaded and who only opened to the world some 40 years ago.

In 1979 the then-king captured the world’s imagination when he said in an interview “we do not believe in gross national product. Gross national happiness is more important”.

This is different to the World Happiness Report a survey of the state of global happiness which ranks 155 countries by their happiness levels, and this year put Norway at the top of the list, with Australia in ninth.

The Taktsang Monastery in Bhutan.The Taktsang Monastery in Bhutan. Photo: Steven Berry

The results of Bhutan’s focus on the happiness of its citizens speak for themselves. Bhutan is one of the top 20 fastest-growing economies in the world (6.5 per cent last year). It was the only country in South Asia to meet all of the UN Millennium Goals. It has a free press, a good education system and there is universal free healthcare.

Not bad for a country that, up until the 1960s, had no national currency, no telephones, no schools, no hospitals, no postal service and no public services.

A daughter of Bhutan.

A daughter of Bhutan. Photo: Scott Woodward

It is the only country in the world that is actually increasing its level of forest cover – 72 per cent, with the constitution enshrining that the level can never drop below 60 per cent.

While it has its share of troubles: high national debt, stubborn youth unemployment and a recent border dispute with China, it does make a claim to being a real-life Shangri-La.

Bhutan sits as a beacon of peace and prosperity in a world that has become increasingly fractured and unpredictable.

Bhutan has no traffic lights and no advertising billboards. Cars are banned from city roads one day each month to reduce carbon emissions. The country absorbs three times as much carbon as it emits. On the food side, the government is close to achieving its goal of becoming the world’s first wholly organic country.

Just celebrating the eighth birthday of its parliament, it is one of the youngest democracies in the world and, according to the Global Peace Index, it has very low levels of corruption.

Spinning a prayer wheel helps accumulate wisdom and good karma in Bhutan.

Spinning a prayer wheel helps accumulate wisdom and good karma in Bhutan. Photo: Nick Abrahams

Buddhist philosophies are at the core of this country. Its national prosperity and security over the centuries is put down to not so much their “external soldiers”, as the army is known, but the power of the “internal army”, being the 12,000-strong Buddhist monk population. While there is a sharp decline in numbers joining religious orders in the West, in Bhutan more people than ever are joining to become monks and nuns.

A core value is the good treatment of all sentient beings, including animals. Stray dogs are everywhere, but unlike mange-riddled street dogs in other developing countries, these dogs are surprisingly fit and healthy, barking not to be menacing but in the hopes of picking up a friendly pat. They used to have a zoo but it was closed down as it was not a natural environment for the animals.

Seventy per cent of Bhutan's fruit and vegetables is organic and the government target is 100 per cent.

Seventy per cent of Bhutan’s fruit and vegetables is organic and the government target is 100 per cent. Photo: Nick Abrahams

The concept of Gross National Happiness is a major driver of government policy and the GNH Index done in 2010 and most recently in 2015 is a tangible way of measuring success.

The GNH Index is not a simple survey of wellbeing. It is not Pharrell Williams euphoric dancing in the street-style happiness that is being measured. Rather it measures prosperity, using nine domains including the physical and emotional health of its people, the strength of communities and the condition of the natural environment.

Men sit outside a house in downtown Paro, Bhutan.

Men sit outside a house in downtown Paro, Bhutan. Photo: Nick Abrahams

Bhutan’s 10-year plan states “the GNH Index is a critical evaluation tool for results-based planning … to ensure that development truly contributes to the achievement of GNH”. This has been echoed by the Prime Minister, Tshering Tobgay, including in a TED talk.

According to Tshewang Tandin, the director-general of Bhutan’s Royal Institute of Management, “people need to have certain subsistence needs met first, adequate food, shelter, healthcare and so on. After that, the GNH Index is a way of measuring real wellbeing of people – their true contentment”.

People walk near a billboard of the Chinese military reading "courageous", in Beijing, last month. Beijing is ...

People walk near a billboard of the Chinese military reading “courageous”, in Beijing, last month. Beijing is intensifying its warnings to Indian troops to get out of a contested region high in the Himalayas where China, India and Bhutan meet. Photo: AP

Bhutan sits as a beacon of peace and prosperity in a world that has become increasingly fractured and unpredictable.

But it is not all fairytale. The kingdom has its challenges. Most serious is a recent Chinese road-building project in the Doklam Plateau, an area on the disputed border between Bhutan and China. Given the proximity of the area, India has responded strongly leading to yet another significant dispute between China and the maturing global superpower.

Economically, Bhutan needs to diversify its revenue base from its hydro-electric power exports to India, which have been the engine room of its economic prosperity. The investment in hydro projects has led to national debt levels outside normal International Monetary Funds (IMF) thresholds.

General unemployment is at an enviable 2.5 per cent, down from 36 per cent in 2000, thanks to targeted government policies including skills programs and incentives for small businesses, especially in rural areas. The problem issue is youth unemployment, sitting at 9.6 per cent.

Bhutan is a country of contrasts. From the solemn sight of devout followers, with shoes on their hands for protection as they make kneeling prostrations every step of long pilgrimages, to youths with boy-band haircuts, traditional dress and mobile phones.

“We are doing a staged transition to a modern economy while protecting our culture,” says Dasho Karma, president of the Centre for Bhutan Studies, then noting with a chuckle that his daughters were out that afternoon to see a touring Korean pop band.

The US Declaration of Independence says governments need to protect the inalienable right of humans to live their lives in the “pursuit of happiness”.

Management thinker Peter Drucker said “you can’t manage what you can’t measure”. So perhaps it is incumbent on governments to measure their success in terms of the happiness of their citizens.

Nick Abrahams is a lawyer, author and entrepreneur. He leads the APAC Innovation Practice for Norton Rose Fulbright and is a director of global think-tank The Institute for Economics and Peace. He was in Bhutan for the launch of the institute’s 2017 Global Peace Index.

 

ROYAL VISIT FROM JAPAN

Press Release from the Imperal Household Agency of Japan :

Princess Mako, a granddaughter of Emperor Akihito, will travel to Bhutan next month, where she is expected to visit a flower exhibition and meet with King Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck.

The princess’s trip was approved Tuesday in a Cabinet meeting. It will be her third official visit abroad.

The 25-year-old daughter of Prince Akishino and Princess Kiko is scheduled to leave Japan on May 31 and arrive in Bhutan on June 1 via Singapore.

The princess is expected to attend a welcome ceremony in the country’s capital Thimphu on June 2 and have an audience with the king and his wife, Queen Jetsun Pema, according to the Imperial Household Agency.

The following day, the princess will watch traditional Bhutanese archery and meet Japan Overseas Cooperation Volunteers. She will also attend ceremonies for Japan-related events that will be held during her visit to the country.

The flower exhibition was proposed by the King and Queen, and first held in 2015. The princess will return to Japan on June 8.

Source : The Mainichi

HOLLYWOOD SUPER STAR, JET LI ENJOYS HIS SPIRITUAL TRIP TO BHUTAN

Recently, Jet Li went on a recent trip to Tiger’s Nest and Dra Karpo, two places that have a rich spiritual history.

Tiger’s Nest and Dra Karpo are both prominent Himalayan Buddhist sacred sites in Bhutan. The Tiger’s Nest temple complex was first built in 1692, around the Taktsang Senge Samdup cave. The Guru Padmasambhava is said to have meditated there. This guru is very important to the history of Bhutan as he is credited with introducing Buddhism to Bhutan and is the tutelary deity of the country.

Jet Li wanted to share this message with all his fans about his time there and the path that brought him to the caves of Bhutan.

jet li's trip to nepal
jet li trip to bhutan
jet li trip to bhutan
jet li trip to bhutan

I’ve done spiritual study for more than 20 years.

I have always asked myself what is world? What is the universe? What is the relationship between human beings and this universe? How does someone find the significance of life?

I was a bit busy couple of years ago and during that time I focused more on methodology and theory.

However, in these last 5 years, my teacher has been stricter with me. He invited me to do meditation for 800 hours, which sounded impossible to me when I first heard him say “800 hours of meditation”. But, after these 800 hours I had a lot of different feelings. Then, my teacher invited me to do another 3000 hours of meditation, so I had to keep moving forward.

jet li trip to bhutan
jet li trip to bhutan
jet li trip to bhutan
jet li trip to bhutan

My teacher also suggested to me that I should find a holy land. I know there are some places that teachers went to find enlightenment a thousand years ago in Bhutan and Nepal.

In Bhutan there are 3 caves, Nepal is a good location too. So I went there thinking maybe I could get some inspiration too. I went to visit 2 caves in Bhutan to find the significance of life and maybe to discover my own potential.

In Bhutan, I was alone for 7 days. Each day I sat in 8-12 hours of meditation, without talking to anyone else. It’s hard to express it in words. You have to experience it yourself to understand this process.

jet li trip to bhutan
jet li meditation
jet li trip to bhutan
jet li meditation

Bhutan is a very quiet and harmonious place, everyone is really friendly, it’s somehow just like novel story or movie.

jet li trip to bhutan
Source: JETLI.COM

WHERE AND WHAT TO DRINK IN BHUTAN

Spicy momos, radioactive liquor and the finest seedy bars of the world.

I’m walking around Thimphu, sightseeing, and my shirt is soaked with sweat. It is a surprisingly sunny monsoon day so it could be the perspiration shooting out through the pores on my back. But it could also be the ema datsi I had for lunch—the national dish of chillies and cheese—clawing its way out of my body.

My life instantly turns for the better when I spot a handful of bars just north of the Chubachhu Roundabout, at the far end of the main street. They are… how should I put it… the most beautiful things I have ever seen. Not only because I’m so thirsty, but because the row of tumbledown houses are incredibly quaint: old wooden structures with about two bars each, plus a couple of tiny shops, strikingly different from the otherwise controlled and coordinated architecture of Thimphu. Each of them stares back at me as if they have been waiting for me for a very long time.

We fall in love.

It helps that the first bar I step into (no name on the outside) is run by a couple of ladies. And while I sit there, a Buddhist monk drops in for a can of Druk, the most popular brand of super strong beer. I couldn’t be in better company, I think to myself and order a Red Panda, a brand which I’ve heard much of since my arrival in Bhutan. It takes me a few sips to get accustomed to its distinctive yeastiness, but by and large my philosophy when it comes to booze is this: If it can be drunk, I’d like to get drunk on it.

Red Panda calls itself a weissbeer, which suggests that it is brewed of wheat, unfiltered and without preservatives. Produced in Bumthang, a district also known for its fine cheeses, the beer is named after an endangered species—the raccoon-like red panda. Distantly related to the Chinese giant panda, it is recognizable by its pale face, dark eye patches, chestnut hair… a bit like a drunk you might encounter in a shady bar. But it is a seriously good beer, I concede after a few chilled mugs.

After a monsoon drizzle cools the city, I move on to another bar (again no obvious name) that catches my fancy in an alley off the Clock Tower Square in the centre of town. The building looks like it could be five hundred years old, although, from a purely scientific perspective, I know it can’t predate the 1960s when Thimphu was built to be the capital of the country. The bar is manned by a gorgeous girl with sharp features, while some lads rest after yesterday’s party on mattresses on the floor, and one aunty sips on her grog. This time I buy a Druk Supreme: a crisp, smooth beer brewed with Himalayan spring water.

For a barfly, Thimphu is like being in heaven. It has more quaint drinking dens than you’d expect in a city of 91,000 people, and as opposed to back home in India, where cheap bars are frequently seedier than Dicken’s nightmares, here in Thimphu, I spot girls gossiping, teenagers on dates, cheerful uncles and aunties having lunch, and yes, even the odd Buddhist monk.

Photo: © Eye Ubiquitous / Nic I'Anson/Dinodia Photo Library

Many storefronts in Thimphu have heavy, wooden frames, painted and intricately carved with traditional motifs. Photo: © Eye Ubiquitous

Some 14 out of the 20 drinking spots I sampled in an intense weekend were run by ladies, who kept the premises tidy. They generally offer an array of remarkable snacks such as yak-skin chips and what looks like a sausage but turns out to be an unbearably spicy black pudding. I try to slip whatever is left on my plate to a dog that drifts in to the bar—by this time I’ve found yet another nice but nameless joint in one of the winding bazaars—but the stern lady who owns the bar admonishes me. One must not share food with random animals, she says, then pours a mug of water on the stray, which until then has been leisurely gobbling up whatever morsels had fallen to the floor.

Spending an afternoon bar-hopping in Thimphu is a highly sensible activity, since most of the nice bars wind down by 9pm and there’s not much of a late night scene (except in some very shady dance bars known as drayangs). An interesting story I hear from a talkative man in one of the bars is about the many practical uses of alcohol in Bhutan—though I’m not sure how factual it is. Apparently, until the 1970s when the country got its own currency, taxes were collected in kind. It could be farm produce such as dried meat or rice wine distilled from various types of fermented grains. Due to the fact that the meat, as you might expect, got infested with maggots when stored for too long in the treasury, booze was preferable as a currency. However, this caused another problem as taxmen were frequently found dead drunk in the royal treasury. So the unavoidable decision was that Bhutan must start using money and hence the ngultrum was born to replace booze as a currency. But up to this day 10 ngultrum will buy you a drink—as I am soon to find out.

It’s all downhill for me from here. To clarify, I mean that I walk down towards the riverside weekend market, which is known to be a haven of vice. Not that most shoppers will notice the supposed drug and flesh trade (I certainly don’t) as it is one of the tidiest markets in South Asia. I decide to sample momos at an eatery by the vegetable market with a menu hanging on the outside wall, suggesting by far the cheapest rates in town: Here, drinks start at ₹10. (The Bhutanese currency, Ngultrum, has exactly the same value as the Indian rupee and every bar will accept payment in rupees.) This joint even has a name: Rignam.

I settle down by a glass counter with a rack of bottles behind it, including Thunder 15000, the strongest beer of the country, the slogan of which reads ‘Happiness for All’. At a table nearby, a girl of about ten years old chops green chillies. She turns out to be the bartender—I kid you not—and calls out to her dad, who is a bald wrestler-type manning the kitchen, to steam me a plate of momos. Then, she brings me a bottle of Thunder 15000 and a sample peg of sonfy, the deadly green aniseed liquor. As a connoisseur with a refined taste in booze, I estimate that each peg of the radioactively coloured sonfy nukes about 10 percent of one’s brain cells. No wonder it only costs 10 ngultrum.

But I still have 70 percent of my brain left. So I seek out other local tipples. The peach wine, I find, is less sweet than you might expect and very refreshing when chilled (the Zumim brand isn’t bad). I sample K5, which, according to a local chemist I met at another bar, is a Bhutanese whisky created to celebrate the coronation of the fifth king. It’s actually blended from various Scottish whiskies, he explains (even giving me the chemical formula for it), but bottled in Bhutan, and good enough to sate a whisky expert. If you want to go local, try Special Courier, the staple whisky, cheap and abundant like a waterfall.

In order to make my exploration seem more scientific, in the next few days I also do try some mid- to high-end establishments—the cool nightclub Mojo Park, the fancy Ara  at the Taj Tashi with its signature cocktails, and the lounge at the legendary Druk Hotel—but it is in the seedy bars that I find what I like best: light, freshly cooked Bhutanese fare, heady drinks, and a slightly better understanding of why the Bhutanese people measure life quality not by GNP but GNH… Gross National Happiness.

One final tippler’s tip: When you’ve had enough of sonfy, or whatever else you’ve had too much of, rotate your hand before your mouth clockwise while you murmur “Me zhu, me zhu” (no, thank you) and they’ll put you either in a taxi or in an ambulance depending on your physical condition. If you are sober enough to walk out on your own legs, say “Kadrinchhey” (thank you) and pay your bill. If you find that you must spell out the Bhutanese word letter by letter, or you cannot find your legs anywhere in the bar, then revert to the previous alternative and ask for the nearest hospital, “Menkhang ga tey in na?

SOURCE: NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA

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